Euro Cheese and Grit Video

Its been a busy few weeks since I arrived back in the UK. We have officially moved here!! I went to Malham a few weeks ago and everyone one was like WTF are you doing. It was freezing, windy and generally miserable, soon I was beginning to wonder the same thing. Finally I bit the bullet and got on a route. The route of the moment for Malham is Bat Route and I can assure you it did not let me down. Very euro in nature with a number of shakes, the climbing is truly amazing and one of the best sport routes in the UK, tough right to the end, just ask Sam Whittaker who knows the ride well. Something I need to get back soon. Congrats to Ben Bransby who recently got the tick. I also paid a visit to the southern cheese that is Cheddar. A refined delicacy that is not to all tastes but there are certainley some gems. One of the best buttresses is Lion Rock. Recently updraded with a costa coffee facing the crag and free parking directly below it it has a few quality lines on good rock.
 


Taming Of The Lion was the aim. I was totally destroyed from a mamouth 9.30am to 6.30pm climbing session at The Climbing Academy the day before mainly revolving around coaching their youth team and an open to all coaching session. I over did it a bit and the next day I was destroyed. I still managed an ascent of Taming The Lion via a sneaky leftwards follow the easiest line method which in french grades is around 7c. The direct semi eliminate version which is 7c+/8a is great climbing but as I said a little eliminate. Maybe I will go back for this sometime. In the afternoon I met up with Dave Pickford, by now I was just a belay bitch, I snoozed as he attempted and dirty looking and loose E5 and snoozed again as he threw some laps on House Burning Down to finish off. Dave has always had a penchant for intereting cars and his newest jam is a beast. A BMW M3 2002, Black with Red Leather Seats. Never having been a fan of BMW's I am now, ohhhh BMW's and cider :-)

 
This is a pic of the worst that Cheddar can offer. Apparently the reason why bolting is currently banned there. Well worth it for some 2 bolt piles of shit Gordan.

Over the last few weeks we have been living with friends in Cubley near Ashbourne and I have been legging it around the UK setting and coaching and basically just cramming the work in. Finally we have found a house and some land to rent. The 5 acre field is now home to our two horses Elsa and Arco and joined by Dooley (Kates sisters horse), as soon as we get Oliana and Joe from Spain there will be 5......or maybe 6 if Oliana is in foal. Next week we move into our house, a mint little cottage in Letwell. A village so small there are no shops and no pub but walking distance from the field and perfect for the dogs. Infact I cant believe how nice this area is. The best part about being based here is that I will be near Sheffield, I have ever really spent time here but I am pretty psyched to now as there is plenty for me to do. Apart from that my house is only 4 miles from Anston Stones.

This bank holiday weekend has turned into a double rest day, so I dug out this clip from Posing Productions. It was taken from the DVD "On Sight". Enjoy.

Clyde 8a+ First Ascent

I have had a copy of this sat on my desktop for ages. Finally I have managed to get a smaller file from Rich Heap of Slackjaw Films fame so that I can upload it onto Vimeo for all you peeps to see. I had a great evening watching this and I hope you do to. If you would like to see more stuff by Slackjaw like the classic Hard Grit and Stone Love check out Slackjaw Films

TCA Glasgow

A while ago I headed up to the new TCA Glasgow . WOWZERS. Boards of all angles, some of them are the largest boards I have seen. The circuit board though was the thing that really impressed me. It is a format that they rolled out at TCA Bristol and they have brought to Glasgow on a much larger scale. This is a 7 minute video of me flashing their 100 move 8b circuit. The video starts at move 34 i think so it is more like a 9 minute circuit!! Set by Alan and Rob and designed around a couple of specific rests that you will probably spot it is a true endurance fest with a sustained and hard finish. Possibly the best route I have ever have climbed indoors. If you find yourself nearby then it is well worth a visit. A big thanks to Lasma Sietinsone for the Video

It is not a jug.

Still in Font. Our van has broken down so it looks like i am going to have to put up with a couple of weeks of great conditions. I hear the UK is bueno ;-)

I had to put this on as it is a good representation of the sometimes common experience of bouldering with your partner and not your mates.

I must admit I was in tears watching this so I had to share it.

Its Not a Jug! - A Fontainebleau Classic from Epic-Adventures on Vimeo.

Flashing Anarkista 8a+ Terradets, Catalunya, Spain

Just a quick blog to show you a new video short from Robbie Meade. Robbie spent 10 days in Spain with us last month and shot loads of great footage. This is the first footage he has got around to editing, and he has got loads more to come. You can find more Robbie films here.

Gaz Parry flashing Anarkista 8a+ from Robbie Meade films on Vimeo.

Enjoy