Wednesday, 7 March 2012

Mind Control.......not.

Whilst it looks like the gravity has been low over in Oliana recently, it most definitely has not been low for me in Santa Linya. I have been trying Fabela for a while now and although I never once thought my second journey to 8c+ would be as easy as my first I had hoped it would be easier than this. Progress is slow but thankfully I am making progress, annoyingly I have not been able to get through the crux of Fabelita to at least have a scrap with the crux of Fabela. In my mind I know I need to go from the ground and climb the Fabelita crux easily. On my last go I was powered out a move or two before the rest. It is now turning into a bit of a mental issue and I havent even started falling near the top!! Anyway to take my mind of this I headed over to Terradets today for some chuffing. A 7a+ warm up, followed buy Tarambana 7b+ and L'Indomable 7c+ on sight I headed up to the cave on the right hand end of the crag. I have always wanted to climb Anarkista 8a+ and after having watched Pete Whittaker try this a few days before I was psyched for the flash. I took as much beta as possible from Neil Mawson and Mayan from New Zealand then set off. The big moves flew by and in a moment I was past the crux, finally I was enjoying my climbing and my move and foot selection was instant. What a great feeling after my hatred of climbing from the day before. Soon i was clipping the belay. I lowered off a happy man. Video to follow soon.

Here is a screen grab.


Flashing Anarkista 8a+ at Terradets

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