2012 feels old to me but it has already been fantastic. On my last day in Spain (Jan 6th) I managed to flash my first 8b. Traversia De Los Gliadores. This takes the obvious left to right diagonal break line starting up the grey rock in the back of the cave finishing in the top right of the pic.
A full 50m of pumpy climbing where it is possible to fall not far from the end. Even with my years as a boulderer it is routes like this that I really love. Once the fitness comes it is a fantastic feeling when you are able to recover in amazing positions. Hanging from a jug in the middle of this cave is one of those places. Going from being boxed out of you mind to ready to go again. I find my self leaving my climbing mind and just chilling, able to take in the surroundings, even have a conversation with people around you and take time to watch others climb. Love it.
With my already hectic year almost one month old I have some great news. Not one but two new sponsors. I have joined the family over at Boreal and after a few years of working with their kids club I have put pen to paper and become The Climbing Academy's first sponsored climber. They join DMM and Beta Climbing Designs for 2012.
So what does all this mean?
Well its great to be involved with Boreal as they are a Spanish company and obviously I like Spain. I can now actually go to the factory and work with them directly to give them feedback and work on prototyping. I call it the Boreal family as it is a family business. Jesus (the boss) is the man that Jerry refers to in his book Revelations. It is family owned and family run, a rare thing nowadays. Its always a better feeling and a better relationship when you are dealing direct with a company and not through a distributor. Thats not to say I didn't have a great time with 5.10 over the years and I certainly wish Big Stone all the best. Its amazing to join the likes of Yuji Hirayama, Danni Andrada and the UK's very own climbing couple Jordan and Naomi Buys.
The real reason I have switched to Boreal though is this.
Yuji Hirayama on Boreal - UKC/UKH at OutDoor 2011 from UKClimbing.com TV on Vimeo.
Zenith, the stickiest rubber from the company that brought sticky rubber to the world of climbing.
My association with The Climbing Academy has been growing ever since they opened and with their recent Glasgow project coming on line we both felt now is a good time to make some stronger links. Having worked with the Youth Squad since 2009 we are now also incorporating regular setting and coaching sessions.
In order to achieve my goals for 2012 TCA's sponsorship will allow me to set a little less when I am in the UK yet still work and earn a crust. I will be working closely with Paul Twomey in Bristol and Al Cassidy (Assistant Manager in Glasgow) to develop a training resource that hopefully will help all their customers to achieve their own goals.
I will be around at both centres from time to time to offer 1:1's or small group private coaching sessions and on a few occasions I will just be wandering around offering advice to anyone who might want some and even if you don't want it you will probably still get it. TCA will use their newsletter and blogs to keep peeps up to date with my progress through the season and to let you know more about the training resource as it develops.
Tomorrow I will be at TCA Bristol coaching the Youth Squad and hanging out with Mike from Boreal at their boot demo. On Sunday 29th I have two coaching sessions left, one from 2.45-4.15 and the last from 4.30-6.00. They cost £60 for a 1 to 1 or £80 for up to 4. You can book or find out more by calling TCA on 0117 9072956.
But, the real reason I have signed a deal with TCA is so that I can partake in their fantastic Cappucinos. Try them as a double....rocket fuel!!!
I will be hanging out with TCA on the following dates:
Jan 28 - Squad Coaching
Jan 29 - 1:1 Coaching. Book through TCA
May 26 - Open Coaching. Free for all.
May 27 - Squad Coaching
May 28 - Setting
June 15 - Setting
June 16 - Squad Coaching
June 17 - Open Coaching. Free for all
Feb 26 - 1:1 Coaching
Feb 27 - Setting
March 18 - Open Coaching. Free for all.
March 19 - Setting
You can also see where The UK Boreal boot demo tour will be stopping at here.
Happy climbing :-)