Friday, 3 June 2011

Comps are coming

Again it has been a while since i blogged. Its not that i dont want to, i have just been running around like an idiot, cramming at all in. Lots of setting, a little climbing and some canal boating......just the usual stuff really. I have been in the UK since the 25th of April!!! and head back to Spain on the 14th June a little under 2 months of work. I am not complaining as i have a great time when i am here setting with friends and to be honest i even enjoy watching people experience my climbs...unlocking the secrets, learning the body position and basically learning from the experience.
In my last post in mentioned i had been over at DMM, on our last evening me and Ben managed to get out on the Slate. We even harboured the idea of trying The Quarryman though time did not allow. Hats off to 5.10 team mate Steve for his recent ascent. A dream that i still carry. We opted for an easier afternoon and after warming up i sent Ben up The Dark Half 8a to place the clips and work out the moves. Although i was destroyed i managed to get a flash, a route i have wanted to do for ages.
I the middle of my stint i grabbed a long weekend back at my house. Kate was in the UK for her sisters wedding so i just cracked on with some jobs. Our paths did cross and on the Mon we headed to Bunyol for the afternoon. Only 30 kms from Valencia airport this is a perfect first day venue.

Climbing one of the steeper 8a's at Bunyol.

The next day i headed to a new crag with only one route, a 7c from CNG. I managed to get the extension to up the level to 8a+. When i go back next in 10 days time we are going to head up here a bolt some more lines. It is a perfect summer venue. Fast access, shade all day and amazing views....will keep you posted.

We are deep in the comp season now and all the guys are reving up for the WC in Vail. My season will start with Barca on the 25th of June followed by Sheffield, Arco World Championships and an invitation to climb at the Adidas Rock Masters in Austria. This weekend though i am off to the Rockfest in Manchester. I dont hold out much hope after so much work, no rest and no skin but it will be interesting to see how many crimps the setters can put on a wall. The last comp i did was at The Climbing Hanger, a cool event set by Taz where i managed a 3rd behind Ned and Dave.





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