Saturday, 29 January 2011

Andreas Proft - F8b Costa Blanc

Just read this news piece on UKC......very interesting. I remember looking up at this route years ago when i visited with Ian Vickers and thinking wow. We had gone up to the Bernia ridge to climb the famous Magic Flute, one of the best tufas on the Costa Blanca.


Chris Newton-Goverd on The Magic Flute, Bernia Ridge, Costa Blanca.

We also tried the extension, The Sphinx 8a but ended up coming down because many of the holds were chipped. We then went onto climb The Immaculate Arete, given 8a at the time we climbed it os and flash only to discover that it was probably 7b. In the latest guide it is 7b.

I saw Adreas Profits videos ages ago on you tube and saw he had a video of him soloing Path Of Excess Power 8a+. Now this was originally given 8a+ by Mark Edwards but is in fact 7b+ or possibly 7c. If you dont believe me go and climb if for your self, in fact i remember once i warmed up on it. Anyway here is Path Of Excess Power solo.



Now back to The First And Last, i am in no way saying this is not 8b as i have never been on it or near it for 15 years but the UKC news piece has reminded me of its existence, the fact i have always wanted to climb it and now would be as good a time as any to find out the grade. Apart from that i didnt know where to climb tomorrow as the weather is going to be mint, so thanks Mark for bolting it, Andreas for videoing it and UKC for making the news about it.

I will report back.

oh yeah almost forgot here is an old post from another Mark Edwards Costa Blanca 8b Iratika at Echo.....probably only 7c+. Get it while you can before the guidebook gets reprinted. Here is the older blog to copy and paste, sorry lost the plot now time for bed!!! www.gazparryclimbing.blogspot.com/2009/02/echo-two.html

2 comments:

Dave said...

I agree with you on the Echo routes. I got Path of Excess power in an evening and I usually take a few sessions to send grade 8's. So you're probably right on the 7b+/7c grade. Been to look at the Bernia crack myself too, looks good - good luck on it, interested to hear how it climbs

Gaz said...

A stern 8a really. I spent a while thinking about the grade and comparing it to other stuff in the Blanca. The crux is so low it is a boulder problem and the route is short. Worth doing really though. Keen for the other stuff up there next time.

Gaz