Friday, 16 May 2008
Had a great three days in Wales last weekend. It was the Weasels birthday so we packed the vans and headed to the valleys. On fri i flashed the amazing Pretty Girls Make Graves and followed it with a leisurely trip up Superdirect on the Mot. Sat dawned another nice day and after the mussy heads subsided we headed for the Slate. Inspired by Nic Sellars getting shut down on Gin Palace in Hard XS we headed up to the Dervish level for some fun. Attempting to warm up on Colditz 7b+ was a mistake but after a swift redpoint it was Ians turn to put the clips in. With clips in place and chalk on the holds!! i managed to flash Gin Palace even though i pulled a hold off the top of the chimney and had a onearm footless moment in the crack. What a fantastic route. In the afternoon we headed over to Upper Pen Trywn to settle an old score with the hard Pollitt route Oyster 7c+. After and good hour staring at a nasty fingerlock i worked out the trick and managed it 2nd rp. Sunday brought more sun and with low tide we headed downstairs where i did Over The Moon Direct on my 1st rp, which is a fantastic route. I finished off a great weekend with Trigger Cut and Lou Ferrino in the Cave of Justice both first go.