Wednesday, 2 January 2008

Grit and Swiss and Grit

Earl crag was excellent. With some nice low temperatures the grit conditions were cool after a few hours i ticked Andys Wall 7c, an arete on right of the crag 7c, Lager Lager (again) 7c, Greg Chapmans excellent new problem Feel The Burn 7c+ and Mark katzs problem just to the right which i thought was a little easier at about 7c. Strangely Lager Lager felt the hardest!!!
The next day it was off to Swiss after a week of hard climbing i came away with 3 8a flashes, Marilyn Monroe at Brione and Team Work and Komilator at Cresciano on the same day. Also climbed the excellent Salamander 8a+ at Brione and spent the rest of the very very cold day falling off Vechia Leone. Martin Smith managed to do the low start to a problem called Schule De Leubens which was originally given 8b and which it is blatantly not. Martin thought 8a+ with the extra low start.
Also climbed with the strong young guns Micky and Liam Desroy, and last week Liam sent The Great Shark Hunt in quick time thinking it was 8a+. On the last day we ended by heading out with headtorches to climb Sissyfuss originally given 8a+/b i managed a flash lit by two headtorces and my mobile phone!! As for the grade probably 7b+!!
When i returned i was chomping at the bit to get out in the UK but oh no it was raining. Finally managed to head out on Boxing Day and climbed an excellent Dunning 7c+ roof at Chevin,a newly climbed 7c but probably 7b+ trav at Ilkley and then just for fun i did the traverse into Super Set at around 7c+/8a.
Anyway enough for now i have just finished packing as i am off to Thailand tomorrow for a month. Bring on the Sun.

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